In Paris, Hermès and the light of day

Amid the frenetic whirlwind that has characterised the luxury industry for several seasons, Hermès, true to its status as a centuries-old house, asserts its distinctiveness through a reverence for the long view, newly expressed in its artistic direction. That said, excitement has been building around the venerable saddler in recent months, following the announcement of the highly anticipated appointment of Grace Wales Bonner to lead the menswear collections after Véronique Nichanian’s 37-year tenure, as well as the launch of the first haute couture collection, likewise slated for early 2027.

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With this work already underway and a reinforced atelier, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski, artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear since 2014, unveiled her ready-to-wear collection for Spring/Summer 2027. Hermès’s consistency in crafting a wardrobe that plays on equestrian codes and a hushed sensuality has served it well amid the rise of the ‘quiet luxury’ trend. As the global luxury market contracts, the house has not changed its tune and continues to draw on its equestrian heritage. On Saturday afternoon, the brand once again set up in the courtyard of the Republican Guard, home to the Cavalry Regiment founded in 1802 by Napoleon Bonaparte, near Place de la Bastille.

While half a dozen fire engines were at work on the street outside the show, tackling a blaze in a nearby alley, the audience stepped into a vast white quadrangle. Within this immaculate set, floor to ceiling, guests waited in the unseasonal heat of early October for the arrival of Colombian star Sofía Vergara, in a sculptural black leather gown. In this sultry setting, the models took to the runway in looks of ideal, airy sensuality conceived by Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski.

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The creative director drew inspiration from the natural elements and the sun’s arc to compose her seasonal palette, showcasing her mastery of leather and the art of blending materials.

“In harmony with the elements, technical lines redefine lightness. Openwork, diaphanous knits feel almost intangible. Innovative leatherwork gives rise to a graphic open lattice: fine leather strips are re-embroidered onto a mesh as delicate as a Japanese stencil,” the creative director explained in her show notes.

“Modular styles play with the breeze, evoking the relaxed, carefree spirit of summer. As versatile as they are functional, the silhouettes can be adjusted using belts and drawstrings. A ‘Brise de Charme’ printed silk skirt unzips to reveal a sculptural drape, whilst wide-leg trousers feature zips to free the leg. Coats and jackets in extra-fine calfskin drape over the shoulders with the crispness of a sheet of paper. A pongee silk parka unfurls like a parachute.”

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From the blue hour to the last rays of the sun, her women started out demure in ultra-light dresses that played with crochet, openwork knits and panels of sheer muslin. Monochrome silhouettes paired wide leather jackets with short skirts. The house’s leather expertise was, of course, to the fore, the material at Hermès appearing almost as fluid as cotton: a fitted beige dress found its structure in an assembly of vertical leather straps, whilst, later, a short chocolate dress was worn beneath a long, ultra-fine terracotta coat that has been meticulously perforated.

“The leather has been treated with a waterproof technique to give it an almost waxy effect,” explained the designer at the end of the show. “We’ve built on a traditional technique to create a lighter feel and blend the design with knitwear.”

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On jackets, raincoats and dresses with classic cuts, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski added a utilitarian inflection with the insertion of zips and oversized zip fastenings. Leather cuff bracelets in various shades of brown, harness-like belts and, of course, breeches and knee-high boots subtly evoked equestrian references. These leather bands and brass teeth underscored one of the show’s key themes. A mid-show sequence of around ten looks – sunlit in a captivating, intense yellow – emerged as the collection’s vibrant heart and a solid foundation for a strong retail expression. Highlights ranged from the safari-chic silhouette pairing a puff-sleeved blouse with a midi skirt, to an oversized jacket teamed with a short black skirt, and a brown dress composed of long tongues of leather, the yellow reverse revealed with every step.

Like other luxury giants, Hermès has seen its share price come under pressure since the start of the year. Whilst calls for a stronger stylistic stance surface from time to time, the consistency of its ready-to-wear proposition, combined with its material innovations, appears to be one of the factors that has enabled it to post an increase in ready-to-wear and accessories sales in the first half of the year.