Chemena Kamali presents ‘obsessions’ and contrasts at Chloé

Featuring embroidery and glossy vinyl, ethereal dresses and gleaming raincoats, Chemena Kamali presented on Thursday a Summer 2027 collection for Chloé that was rich in contrasts, guided by her ‘instinct’ and ’emotion’.

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The German creative director, who has held the role since 2023, was greeted with a standing ovation at the end of the show for this ‘Obsession’ collection, staged in the gardens of the Paris Observatory on the fourth day of Fashion Week. According to investigative outlet Glitz, Chemena Kamali is reportedly leaving. She gave no hint of it, under the gaze of Claudia Schiffer, Cynthia Erivo, Maud Apatow, Emma Mackey, and Lou Doillon.

The designer has embraced the Parisian house’s heritage, aiming to “explore Chloé’s archetypes – never its stereotypes – by rediscovering the nuances of their beauty in a new light,” according to her show notes.

To express the ‘heart and soul’ of the brand founded in 1952, the early ‘young girls’ dresses’ in broderie anglaise were reimagined in organza and dense cottons. Blouses are worked with floral openwork, shoulders are puffed and passementerie abounds, in line with her folk-chic revival.

‘Outerwear’ is another of Chemena Kamali’s ‘obsessions’: she has adapted the sailor’s oilskin, overlaying it with transparent vinyl in vivid colour gradients and graphic silhouettes.

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The fluid ‘Noel’ suit from 1972, designed by Karl Lagerfeld, was also revisited with a touch of glamour.

Finally, the designer expanded the lingerie, ranging from pastels to white for the finale: “I cut into the lace of these delicate pieces to transform them into romantic harnesses,” fashioned as triangles laced around the waist. Elsewhere, gold and silver jewellery shaped like shells or flowers adorned bare busts.

Paris (France), October 1, 2026 (AFP)